🔗 Share this article

When curating a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might expect familiar award-winning names. But, situated high among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The accolade has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest shop securing such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary triumph.